Last time I travelled to New York, I fell in love
with plantains. Head over heels. In every guise that I ate them. I have spent
the two years since mourning their absence in my life. Hopefully checking out
tales of plantain sightings in Perth from the definite to the more vague. None
were fruitful (ha!) Then one day a few weeks ago, I walked into The Nanna Shop,
and there they were in all their (at the time) green glory. I bought some
without thinking. Without concern that I’d never pay $7.99 a kilo for bananas
or potatoes – but here I was paying that for plantains. I finally could relive some
of the dishes I had loved whilst travelling. I started with simple tostones – twice
fried plantain chips. Just as crispy and salty and delicious as I remembered!
Then I did a bit of a search for more plantain recipes both online and in my
Cuban and Peruvian cookbooks. I came across a Dominican recipe for plantain
gnocchi with a beef short rib ragu on the Saveur website. Not much one
for the price of beef ribs, I decided to use that recipe as a flavour guideline
and mix it up a little to make my life much easier by switching to a slow
cooked blade roast. So no removal of bones, no straining the vegetables out of
the sauce, everything just cooked and eaten together. It also meant changing
the plantain gnocchi with yuca flour to mashed plantains with white rice – skewing
things a bit further to the Cuban style of serving. I’d love to experiment with
a plantain gnocchi one day (although yuca flour is probably well out of the
equation!)
The flavours here an big and punchy. The meat has a
decent heat kick – feel free to add more or less cayenne depending on how hot
you like things. There’s a subtle acidity from the vinegar and tomato paste,
but it’s well tempered by the big beefy flavour and the creamy crème fraiche added
just at the end. The plantains should be yellow, this means a slightly sweeter
mash that has an almost limey brightness to it. The rice and tomato salsa are
fairly standard additions, adding bulk, texture and freshness. I loved this
meal. So much. The beef here then lasted for a subsequent 4 meals, including a hungover
quesadilla morning for four.
And I was delighted to learn that they still had
plantains on offer this weekend just gone, so I am restocked again. This time I
bought enough that I might even be able to hold off until a few go black and
try them that way!
Beef Ragu with Mashed Plantains
2 tbsp. rice bran oil2 brown onions, diced
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 carrots, diced
3 sweet paprika, diced (sub 1 red capsicum)
2 tsp. salt
2 tbsp. smoked paprika
1 tsp. black pepper
2 tsp. dried basil
1 tsp dried thyme
1 tsp. cayenne
3 tbsp. tomato paste
½ cup balsamic vinegar
2 cups beef stock
200mL crème fraiche
2 yellow plantains
White rice for serving
Tomato salsa (2 fresh tomatoes, 2 spring onions, handful of coriander and flat leaf parsley finely diced and tossed together)
Bring the liquid to a boil, then place the beef
back in gently. Place inside the slow-cooker, cover and cook on low for 8
hours, or until the meat is falling apart.
When the meat is ready, prepare the plantains.
Without peeling, cut the plantains into cylinders around 4cm long. Place in a
shallow glass bowl, add ¼ cup water cover with plastic wrap and microwave for 5
minutes, or until the plantains are soft. Remove the peel, then mash the
plantains with the water remaining in the bowl. Season with a little salt.